The paint is impressively persistent! And of course there's the body but that's another chapter. They're still a bit messy in terms of wiring, but I'll get to that later. Hopefully I'll be able to find some time today to post a few things. These here are for my XRay, but I've got enough of this stuff to outfit the King with that as well. Ok so the truck is asking for a new one and I will deliver. I've got to admit that this project sort of grew out of proportion and got me totally excited. Still the same, I am now awaiting a shorter set of shocks at 70mm the same as my MB ones as I see this as the only way to resolve it . $11.00 $ 11. 1 pair Axle Pin Extender(APE) for 5mm Drive Axles . It's still the initial setup, though. King Blackfoot 2.0 coming up soon! Next step - glue it up! Powered by Invision Community, King Blackfoot Custom Chassis Mods and Improvements, To this day, Tamiya still can over-think things (i.e. In early February MAST began its hosting of the GALEX public "Early Release Observations" images (40,000 objects) and spectra (1000 objects). The frog packet just states a 4mm o-ring with no thickness. I'll keep you posted. The ORV rear suspension arms have down-stops molded into the underside that hit the bottom of the chassis to limit the travel of the arm, and over time, these wear down or wear a little groove in the bottom of the chassis and that lets the arm drop down too much. The Super Blackfoot was the first round of revisions which focused on the woefully weak rear gearbox. I made one piece stick out of the buckle one side by about 0.5 mm... ...and filed it down to the thickness of the shim I still had to apply here. Alright, enough talk. So here's a size side to side with the original parts. Check out how the wheel base grew by a few mm and, what's more interesting, the front track width also increased! ... Tamiya Frog Brat Blackfoot Monster Beetle Gearbox Case Side Plates & Hardware RC. Nice re-use of them! (I think you should've got some of these included in the blue transmission bag right?). These products are not only sold in Japan but also exported in vast quantities to the United States, Europe, South East Asia, and to many other parts of the world. In fact, the pic above was taken after I already popped one in. But for now I'm concentrating on making everything fit properly and have the suspension in place before carrying on to re-building and reinforcing the steering. I've got more mods lined up - but I'm not telling. Have been trying to find a set that are maybe 42 or at a push 44mm long in total that will fit the frog re re drive cups. I was lucky enough, however, to find some brass tubing with the inner diameter to perfectly fit the shaft-screw of the turnbuckle. Make Offer - Tamiya 58618 Monster Beetle 2015 Spare C-Parts Tree Mud Blaster Blackfoot NEW NR TAMIYA TG10 Stock Single Speed Transmission Parts Rc Glow Remote Car Hpi $25.00 I drilled out the hub to 3.8mm to receive a snug fit of the rivet. I still haven't received my 70 mm shocks so took your advice and placed a spacer in the Blackfoot black style shocks ( no shock oil), I did this by using one of the small guide sleeves that goes through the shock fixings eyes, placing this inside the shock on the shaft, this has worked brilliantly and seems to have solved my problem, well done guys and thanks for the heads up. One of which is my old Tamiya Blackfoot. Btw, I've uploaded a little something to YouTube. A brief run down of its history: The KBF is the last in a very long line of vehicles to use the ORV (off road vehicle) platform. Yesss, you read that right! The 1/10 2016 Blackfoot 2WD Monster Truck Kit by Tamiya America, Inc is built for high performance driving with optimal functionality and control. Consider this a proof of concept. The King Blackfoot finished the transformation by revising the front suspension totally to a more up-to-date standardized design. i see what you mean, that is a rather extreme angle , as gripper suggests ,try the rubber grommets or O rings in the cups there should be just enough packing to stop any slop in the dogbones when the are at the level point or parallel with the ground without binding up the drive system , an easy fix in mean time would be to add an internal spacer to the shock shafts to limit down travel , you will lose a few mm of suspension travel but it should stop the d-bones popping out until you get the new drive shafts fitted, I can confirm that the MB & BF shocks are the same length about 80mm eye to eye & the piston rods are not threaded on either (except at the bottom for the spring cap). I'll post a quick video showing the difference between before and after. $19.99. 5 out of 5 stars (6) Total Ratings 6, $14.89 New. So first on to the electronic components. post a few pics showing the shaft and cups with boots pulled back, uncompressed , half compressed then fully compressed and i am sure that a solution could be spotted . That way front and rear towers are connected and provide each other stability (at least that's what I hope). FOR SALE! I used the V-shape of the mounting points, which btw never had any real purpose on the KB, as guides and it turned out pretty nice, I think. Vintage Tamiya OP142 53142 4WD Touring Rally TA01 TA02 Top Force ALU Motor Mount $44.99 Once the proper design architecture was nailed down, alot of vehicles began to look and act the same. So i thought i would do the same on a BF i recently purchased, the problem i am having though is that it seems the drives are at too steep an angle when at rest compared to the MB. Shop RC cars, … I am assuming that if i am fitting some 70mm ali shocks i have just bought this may solve my problem once and for all without the need to place the spacers in (unless i want it to look as it did for a shelf model) mines a runner for sure so not a problem in fitting the smaller shocks. More on that later. I'm hoping that I can carry over some stuff from the original body like, say, the bumpers, and that way merge the present with the past. Works great, and allows me to fit a vintage set of Parma steering thingies that help to reduce bump-steer. Team Fast Eddy Tamiya BlackFoot 58038 Sealed Bearing Kit (TFE839) ... NEW TAMIYA BLACKFOOT/MONSTER BEETLE Parts E Rear Bumper MUD BLASTER TEJ6. (19) 19 product ratings - MIP Super 16210 Ball Differential Tamiya Blackfoot/ Monster Beetle. Here's another pic of the mount. This truck always seemed... unfinished to me, like it was asking for more, like it was abandoned half way through it's development. Here's another look from the side. The one further to the front I added myself. the issue of longer shafts is that they may bind as the suspension compresses , although most tamiya drive shaft cups look the same they often have subtle changes to make up for such issues as you are having . We'll see how it goes... On the rear things more or less stayed the same geometry wise, except for the slightly increased toe in. Just add enough spacers inside the shocks to shorten them enough so that the shock, not the down-stop, determines how far the arm drops. This work summarizes the status of the on-detector and off-detector electronics developments for the Phase 2 Upgrade of the ATLAS Tile Calorimeter at the LHC scheduled around 2022. I really need to track down a King Blackfoot for my collection. Only 13 left in stock - order soon. In order to quantify the effects of this environment on the detector performance and human safety, several Monte … Especially in the front there's gonna be a huge geometry change. The maximum upgrade people seem to recommend for a truck of thistype is a 12 turn with x2. This is how it should be. $105.00. I'm too tired to say much more or to put it all together. I always felt like the cover had somewhat of a tractor look to it, which I dislike. I'm not) and an automotive engineer who spent the last 5 or so years in chassis development at Ford, it's just feels right to finally try and mod it up to it's full potential. Think skid plate. What were you thinking, Tamiya? The biggest issues that this setup brings along is that the steering is now the lowest point of the vehicle. Firstly- putting a washer on the inside of the swinging arm driveshaft still allowed me to put the pin through the driveshaft and fit the rear wheel locator over the pin, but upon fitting the wheels it locked them tight to the outside of the trailing arm, obviously no good. This would have the effect of slightly reducing the gap between the sandwiching axels, and hopefully, just enough to stop the dogbone being able to pop out?. It originally came out (as the Subaru Brat) as a replacement chassis for the SRB (special racing buggy) which was Tamiya's first buggy chassis (1979). The suspension was too stiff, unwilling and generally awkward. It's arguable if the new "frame" itself has any advantage over the said cover but I like it that way. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111000655297?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649. i will try the washer at each end as suggested in some forums. I am using this type of dog bone set which seems to suffer the same popping out as the one in a frog rerelease transmission gear bag which is a loose double ended dog bone. For now, I'm pretty impressed with how well the project actually turned out! Whoever built this thing before packed the gearbox with a thick black grease, odd, though it seems to have minimized wear of the parts. I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. Just ask if you want to know or see anything specific. Classic Tamiya Blackfoot Chassis With Ultimate Upgrade Steering and Screws ebay item number 330636130858 Ultimate upgrade steering included! I have upgraded my Original Blackfoot with the ReRe Frog dogbone axels, and I must say, I have had no problems with it (no dogbones popping out etc..). But nope the yellow shocks have arrived off the bay and they measure exactly the same as the BF black shocks 80mm. I then cut the tubing to the right length... ...and put the pieces into place using a pair of pliers. So fingers crossed! To this day, Tamiya still can over-think things (i.e. That said, I just couldn't leave the steering the way it was - I mean the inner tie rod ball-joint positions are just ridiculous! The Super Blackfoot was the first round of revisions which focused on the woefully weak rear gearbox. I painted them blue. On top of that I also had 4 Savage X shocks left. I know, it's not the most elegant looking solution but at that point in time I didn't know how the project would spin out of control on me. It'll be this one, although in a different color. Maybe you can fit the standard BF knuckles on the KBF A-Arms??? I recently found myself having a brushless Racestar motor/ESC combo and 9kg digital servo lying around - both new since I only ever ran them a couple of times on another RC. 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